Moccasijj



E. A. LLEWELLYN.

MOCCASIN.

APPLICATION nun MAR. 24. 1915.

Patented Aug. 22, 1916.

have invented certain new ERNEST A. LLEWELLYN, OF WILTON, MAINE.

MOCCASIN.

To all whom it may concern: 7

Be it known that I, Eaivnsr A. LLEwELLvn, a citizen of the Dominion ofCanada, and a subject of the King of Great Britain, residing at Wilton,in the county of Franklin and State of Maine, United States of America,

I and useful Improvements in Moccasins; and I hereby declare that thefollowing is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference beng had to the accompanying drawings, which form part of thisspecification.

This invention relates to shoes or the like, and more particularly tomoccasins; and the objects are to provide a moccasin or shoe of superiorquality having a neat a nd attractive appearance and embodying In itsconstruction a vamp including the composed of a single piece of leatheror other suitable material secured to the sole of the shoe with itsupper edge freeand continuous from heel to toe, and having an upper andtoe-piece secured thereto by a seam, preferably a raised seam, extendingaround the shoe in such manner as to produce in the finished article apliable shoe or moccasin that will be easy on the foot and comfortableto wear and will have an attractive and finished appearance, without theobjectionable features which are incident to the gathering of theleather according to present methods of construction, which tend to makethe shoe stiff and cause the raised seam around the toe to rip; theseobjectionable features being eliminated by my improved method of formingand sewing the vamp and other parts of the shoe or moccasin together.

The invention will first be hereinafter more particularly described.with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are to be taken as apart of this specification, and then pointed out in the claims at theend of the description.

In said drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view of a moccasin embodyingmy invention Fig. 2 is a longitudinal sectional plan view of the same;the section being taken on a line below the seam which connects the vampwith the upper and toe-piece shown in Fig. 2,- Fig. 3 iepreseiits a planview of a blank for a shoe or moccasin vamp and lower portion of thequarters of a shoe embodying my invention.

Referring to said drawings, in which the Specification of Lettersiatent.

Application filed March 24, 1915.

quarters I Patented Aug. 22, 1916. Serial No. 16,627.

same reference letters corresponding parts in different views, theletter A may denote the vamp of a shoe or moccasin formed in one piecewith the lower portion of the quarters, and B the upper in one or moresections extending around the shoe from the heel to a point in front ofthe usual ankle seam, where it is joined to a toepieee C having a tongueD secured thereto. Said parts B, C and D may be of the form shown, or ofany suitable form and are secured to the upper free edge of the vamp andlower portion of the quarters preferably by a raised seam a extendingentirely around the shoe, as shown. The vamp A consists of a singlepiece of leather or other suitable material extending completely aroundthe shoe; the ends of said piece meeting at the rear of the heel wherethey may be sewed or otherwise secured together, and the joint or heelseam may be covered by a back strap E, suitably stitched to give a neatand finished appearance.

A blank for the singlepiece vamp is shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings,being cut from a piece of leather in approximately U-shapcd form andhaving the outer edge thereof cut away at several points, as shown toadapt the cut away portions to be sewed together and theblank to be bentupon itself and its outer edge turned in or under the foot and securedto the sole of the shoe in the manner illustrated in Fig. 2 of the drawings, and to this end said outer edge has a V- cut f in each wing, theedges of which cut are to be sewed together and from this point saidedge of one wing preferably extends in a straight line, as at to nearthe free end of the wing while the corresponding part f of the otherwing is preferably concave, and at the other termini of these straightand concave edges a portion of the blank is cut away, as at f, in bothwings, so as to leave a flap f, and a free end of reduced width.

The outer edge of the blank at the junction of the two wings is cut awayso as to leave a preferably rounded portion or tip f to which, when theblank is bent upon itself, the adjacent edges of the cut-away portions7" are sewed, while the edges of the two wings are brought together andsecured by a seam or stitches along a line extending lengtlnvise of theshoe, as shown in Fig. 2, while the inner edge of the blank is left freefor the attachment thereto of an upper are used to denote seetion orsections B and toe-piece whieh may be united by a raised seam a, saidseam extending entirely around the shoe as shown. .\s will be seen, thein-turned edge of the blank is so formed that there is no gathering ofthe leather. or no leather to take in. as in the usual method ofeonstruetion. in which there is usually a lot of leather to be gatheredin. which makes the shoe stitl' and eauses the raised seam around thetoe to rip, whereas my improvement. obviates the necessity for gatheringthe leather around the upper edge of the vamp as is usually neeessary inthe manufacture of shoes or moceasins aeeording to methods in eonnnonuse. The V-eut in each wing of the blank and the eut-away portions ateach side of the tip f adapt the lather to he gathered so as to lit.over the sole and to lie smoothly under the foot. As will be seen thewing F of the blank. whieh forms the outside of the vamp of the shoe andeomes on the outside of the last is a little wider than the wing I andhas a straight edge f where there is no leather to be taken in on theoutside. exeept sueh as is taken in by the V-eut at that side from whichpoint said straight edge slants toward the heel. while the eont'rontingeoneave edge ot the other wing F permits a gathering or taking in of theleather at that side so as to form an approximately straight seam from apoint about midway ot the shoe to the tip f and makes the blank tit snugto the last. The outer edge of the blank is eut a 'ay at f to allow theheel to he lasted in without the gathering of too mueh leather in oraround the heel. and is eut away at f" on both sides of the tip to adaptsaid edge to eome in on the bottom of the last, so that when the sole issewed on the vamp the meeting line of these edges will eome inside ofthe line of l'astening that holds the sole on the vamp.

ln makiin the shoe. the edges of the V-euts are tirst stitehed together.then the heel seam is stitehed, then the bark strap E is stitehed on,and then a suitable eounter (l is stitehed in. The shoe is thenstitehell up the bottom to the rut-away portions oil opposite sides ofthe tip 1" and then put on the last. and then the edges of the blank onopposite sides of the tip are drawn down and stitehed to the. tip, thusadapting that portion of the lower edge of the vamp to fit snugly anddispense with a seam and strap down the toe as heretofore employed. Thetoe-pieee G is then stitehed to the tongue 1), preferably by placing thelower edge of the tongue on top of the toe-piece so that the tongue willoverlap the toe-piece, and the two parts may then be sewed together withlines of stitehiinf. as shown; the toe-piece, being laid on the lastafter the vamp is on, and then the upper B is laid on and these partsare sewed to the amp preferably by a raised seam extending eon'ipletelaround the shoe. If desired, a sole of the (lomlyear type may he sewedon by sewing through the single sole pieee elose to the vamp. and a heelof about two lifts. thus making a low heel whieh will afford comfort tothe wearer and lessen the danger of slipping.

In a moeeasin thus formed the leather along the upper edge of the vampsimply lays in the right place without the neeessity of forcing orgathering the same. and it has a tendeney to keep its shape moreeorreotly and uniformly and to better advantage than in the ease ofVamps as heretofore construeted. and at the same time is more pliablethan a moeeasin as ordinarily (7onstrueted. and also presents a moreneat and finished app *aranee.

It will also be understood that in the manut'aeture of shoes ormoeeasins embodying mv in\ention leather or any other suitable materialmay be employed. and in the appended elaims the word leather is intend dto inelude any suitable material.

llaving thus described my invention. what 1 elaim as new and desire toseeare by Letters latent is:

1. A. moeeasin or shoe eomprising a sole, a ramp including the lowerpart of the quarters eomposed of a single pieee of leather. said vamphaving a tip with eut away por tions at each side thereof and a V-shapedeut at eaeh side of said cut away portions drawn and sewed together.said vamp extending eompletely around the shoe and having the loweredges thereof drawn and seeured together along a line extending fromheel to toe lengthwise ot' the sole. and an upper together with a toepieee seeured to the top edge of said vamp,

.2. A moeeasin or shoe eomprising a sole. and a vamp ineluding the lowerpart of the quarters eomposed of a single pieee of leather ut out inUshaped form. a portion of the outer edge of one wing thereot' beingstraight and the eorrespomling portion of the outer edge of the otherwing being eoneave, eaeh wing having a V-eut therein at the terminal ofthe strai ht or eoneaye edge fa 'thest away from the tree end ot thewing.

3. A blank for a moeeasin or shoe vamp eonsisting of a single piece ofleather cut out in approximately U-shaped form. one wing beingsubstantially a counter-part of the other and eaeh having a V-eut in theouter edge thereof, said edge being also slightly cut away at somedistance from and between said V-euts to a point about midway of theblank so as to leave at said point a rounded portion or ti whereby saidouter edge of the blank is adapted to he turned under and sewed to theso e ot the shoe. in such manner as to secure the edges of said wingstogether on a line extending lengthwise ot' the shoe with said tipturned.

under at the toe and secured to the adjacent cutaway portions or edgesof said wings surrounding said tip.

4. A blank for a moccasin or shoe vamp consisting of a single piece ofleather cut out in approximately Ushaped form, a portion of the outeredge of one wing being straight and the corresponding portion of theother wing being concave, each wing having a V-cut therein at theterminal of the straight or concave edge farthest away from the free endof the wing, said straight edge slanting from said V-cut toward theinner edge of the wing, each wing having the edge portion thereof at theother terminal of the straight orconcave edge cut away so as to leavethe wing with a heel portion of reduced width; that portion of the blankbetween said V-cuts having its outer edge cut away so as to leave aboutmidway thereof a rounded part or tip, adapting the edges of saidcut-away portions to be gathered around said tip and sewed thereto bybending the blank upon itself, said tip being adapted .to be turnedunder and secured to the sole at the toe of the shoe;' the edges of theV-cuts being adapted to be sewed together and the outer edges of the twowings turned under and sewed together along'a line extending lengthwiseof the shoe.

5. A blank for a shoe or moccasin con sisting ofa single piece ofmaterial of appr Ximately U-shaped form, each wing having a V-shaped cutin its outer margin and outer terminal cut away so as to leave a heelportion of reduced width.

(SXA blank for a moccasin or shoe vamp consisting of a single piece ofmaterial cut out in approximately U-shaped form, a portion of the outeredge of one wing being straight and slanting toward the inner edge ofthe wing in the direction of the free end of the wing and thecorresponding portion of the other wing being concave.

7. A blank for a moccasin or shoe vam consisting of a single piece ofmaterial cut in approximately U-shaped form, a portion of the outer edgeof one wing being straight and slanting toward the inner edge of thewing in the direction of the free end of the wing and the correspondingportion of the other wing being concave, each wing having theedge-portion cut away and slitted at its free end so as'to leave a shortflap and a heel portion of reduced width.

8. A blank for a moccasin or shoe vamp consisting of a single piece ofmaterial cut out in approximately U-shaped form, the outer edge of onewing being straight for a portion thereof, and the outer edge of theother wing being concave for a portion thereof, each wing having aV-shaped cut therein at one terminal of said straight and concaveportions, and having the edge portion cut away and slitted at the otherterminal so as to leave a shortfiap and a heel portion of reduced width.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my. own, I affix my signaturein presence of two witnesses.

E N ESTA. LLEWELLYN.

Witnesses:

C. N. BLANCHARD, GLADYS PARKER.

